Block Internals
All these photos were taken after testing hence there will be some discoloration due to tarnish.
All four blocks have very similar internals. They can be taken apart by removing the four countersunk screws in the base. These screws also secure the mounting brackets. This is the Pro version and you can see just how fine the channels are in the base. There is no detachable jetplate, however the function is provided by the top itself. The full copper has a similar base but is of course not plated:
The basic has the exact same layout but the difference is in the base itself which has much wider channels:
The Pro allegedly has 78 channels while the Basic has 49. If you compare to the original HeatKiller III the orientation of the channels with respect to the ports has changed, and there is a removable jetplate:
The area milled in the copper base is much larger, but the channels are not as fine. If we measure the Pro cooling engine area we see the channels are 25.67mm long i.e. almost exactly an inch. Unusual for Germans to design in non metric units!
The width of the engine is about 27mm:
The Basic has the exact same measurements the only difference is the number of channels. In comparison the HK III is 38.4mm long:
And a very similar 28.2mm wide:
The cooling engine is not the only thing to have changed – the HK III had ports that were really close together:
At only 21.7mm (center to center) the ports could not accept larger fittings. The HK IV improves on this by about 3mm to 24.6mm while still retaining Watercool’s idea to have the inlet always in the center of the block:
Now let’s take a look at how the blocks mount
Greetings from Germany!
Awesome review, thorough as usual and very much appreciated.
While it may be impractical to add another block to the restriction graph, a graph with select blocks would be nice.
i remember a tweaked/moded HK3 on skinnees (http://skinneelabs.com/heatkiller-3-0-lt-lc/2/) for those with a HK3 it might be interesting to see how it compares. Vapor had an improvement of 1.3 deg C which would in theory even beat the HK4. 😮
all the best
DX2
p.s. i had a question about your testing, i sent an email.
greetings from Germany!
Awesome review, thorough as usual.
A restriction graph of the HK4 as a link or compared to a select few would be nice.
i remember on skinnees, Vapor reviewed the HK3 LT. He tweaked/modded it getting 1.3 DegC improvement. It would be really interesting to see if the tweak delivers, assuming it does, it would even beat the HK4 :-O
all the best keep the reviews coming!
i had a question about your testing. i sent a email. ^_^
greetings from Germany!
Awesome review, thorough as usual. Keep up the good work!
A restriction graph ith a select set of blocks would still be nice tbh.
The HK3 LT review from skinnee included a modded HK3. It was 1.8 Deg better than unmodded if those result hold true the modded hzk3 might best the HK4. It would be awesome if you tried the mod!!
many kind regards
DX2
p.s. i sent a question via email.
I’m curios about the price differences in these blocks. Was the universal back plate necessary at all? It adds ~12USD more to the overall price. Currently, this will make it ~100USD simply for the cpu waterblock. Just curios to know if they’re any help, or if they’re required.
Honestly I haven’t tried it, and of course its only needed for socket 115x, but I would be reluctant to not use it. CPU blocks can mount with a fair bit of pressure, and I’d want to avoid bending the board.
One thing I can add after learning from experience. The HK3 water block works real well. Then the plasticizer from the flexible tubing clogs it. This happens anywhere from 6 to 9 month intervals with a OC’d AMD FX 9590 and 2 OC’d R9 285s. After the 2nd cleaning you notice the fine cuts in base are filled with crud. I found the best cleaner is tooth paste mixed with vinegar. The real problem is finding a brush with bristles fine enough go in between the ridges and stiff enough to remove it without scratching or bending them. So if you are not using rigid tubing, the HK basic maybe be better when it comes to cleaning. It is best not reuse the old tubing (leaks). Have not done a ridged reinstall, yet,,, but I believe careful disassembly and attention to orientation can be done without heating and bending new tubes. It is possible that the heat from the 9590 is more concentrated than the heat from the 285s because I did not notice as much crud in them?
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