Using the data compiled from the Coolgate G2 thermal testing I have compiled the following tables in an attempt to show another way how the G2 performance varies against itself at the flow rates and fan speeds tested. First let’s start with the raw numbers:
Now let’s use these to show percentage gains relative to a reference point. It’s an interesting way to show gains/losses while changing a variable. This first table shows performance gain or loss relative to 1.0GPM flow rate:
This shows that increasing flow to has some gain while lowering flow to 0.5GPM does affect performance but only really at high airflow.
We can also focus on 1300RPM as our reference and see how much gain or loss in performance we get by changing fan speed:
As expected the change is dramatic. Lastly we can combine both and choose 1300 RPM and 1.0 GPM as our reference point to show both effects concurrently:
So from the data above we can get a very good idea of how the G2 radiator performs relative to itself. But there is a large selection of 360mm radiator models to choose from, released from numerous manufacturers. So, we need to start comparing performance between them. To see how the radiator performed against the other radiators in this group I have included the averaged flow rate comparison charts from the Round Up. We know that the flow rate has little impact on thermal performance so averaging of the 3 flow rate results gives us a good look at head to head performance at the rpm speeds tested at with even less error.
Let’s start off with the Push only results:
The G2 does poorly at 750RPM. The thick radiator presumably needs some pressure to really get going. Although there are worse performers, those performers are all tuned with high FPI.
At 1300 RPM the G2 starts climbing up. However it’s still below average.
By 1850RPM the G2 is clearly in the top half of the performers, but it is still not standing out. Let’s see if Push/Pull helps it do better:
This time at 750RPM the G2 is already off to a better start.
Now at 1300 RPM it looks like more convincing finishing in 6th place now.
At 1850RPM it moves up to 5th place. A good finish, but it can’t compete with higher FPI designs that are tweaked with high airflow in mind.
At 1GPM we can compare apples to apples with regard to Push vs Push/Pull. This makes for some interesting comparisons, but the plots do get quite busy:
As we know 750RPM is not the G2’s strong point.
At 1300RPM the G2 with Push starts over taking the worst of the Push/Pull radiators.
At 1850RPM the G2 with Push/Pull is still significantly above the best Push only radiator, meanwhile the G2 with Push has over taken a good number of Push/Pull setups.
From all of these results we can create a “master performance factor”. The radiator with the best cooling ability (W/10ΔT) at each gpm/rpm combo was awarded a score of 100, and each other radiators W/10ΔT result was scored as percentage of the top performer:
At every gpm/rpm combination in push/pull the G2 was over 90%. This shows it as a good all rounder when it comes to Push/Pull. Push only scores however were a different story.
Then all the percentage scores were averaged giving us the Averaged Performance Factor of each radiator. This way of looking at the comparison takes away any advantages that a radiator may have at higher or lower fan speeds and looks at an overall average. While this appears fair it does tend to favor those radiators that are all rounders and those radiators which do very well at high RPM. Most users should be more focused on their specific use case. Check in the Round Up for performance comparisons at every gpm/rpm combo for even more details and cross comparison results.
First up – the overall Push performance:
Here the G2 performs solidly in the middle of the pack.
In Push/Pull the Coolgate G2 came in near the top in the averaged performance factor!
Next up – Summary!
[…] UT60 360 Radiator Alphacool XT45 360 Radiator Coolgate G2 360 Radiator EK PE 360 Radiator Hardware Labs Alpha Extreme III 360 Radiator Hardware Labs Nemesis GTS 360 […]
How dirty was this radiator compared to Alphacool? Is the blitz kit needed?
The Coolgate G2 was like that vast majority of the rads, coming clean after my usual hot water flush followed by vigorous shaking method. After the hot water flush, I shake with warm tap water 3 times, then 3 times with distilled. The hot flush dissolves excess water based flux, and the shaking is usually enough to get all the small particles out. If you plan on using Pastel coolant which is much more PH sensitive, then additional measure should be taken, such as Blitz Part 1.
Thank you for this amazing review. I was debating (as I’m a reseller for Koolance), weather or not to purchase the Koolance product or this one. As a result of your thorough testing I’m going to go with the Coolgate CG-360G2. My config will be set up like this:
25mm Fan/65mm Rad/25mm Fan/65mm Rad/25mm Fan = 205
Which will just cover the bottom of the width of my Origin Genesis PC Case. Again, thank you for your help. Greatly appreciated !!!
I just ordered these rads from Performance-PCs and just checked the port openings inside of these rads. My question to you is, what do you do when the tubes in these rads are partially or completely blocked with solder? Mind you this happened 3 years ago when I purchased a Magicool Extreme Triple 540x35mm rad. 3 of the 5 rads had major issues in the tube openings that were completely blocked and I had to have (Authorized Officer) Yiming Huang (found here on FB: https://www.facebook.com/yiming.huang.969/photos) ship a replacement rad, but I never received it because the shipping company he used messed up my shipping address and he never replied to my many emails to him to resend another one. 3 years later here I am purchasing 2 x CG-360G2 rads (which fit perfectly in my case) and 1 x CG-240G2 rad and BOTH 360 rads have solder that are either partially or completely blocking the tubes so NO water can flow through those channels. Then I come to find out that Coolgate is run by the SAME company as Magicool and by (guess who)… THE SAME PERSON – Yiming Huang. I guess I’m going to be out of luck getting any kind of help from him. What would you do?
Wow that sounds bad. I just put two 480 versions of these in my TH10A. How do I check for this kind of blockage? I ran distilled through a fish pump with a water filter for about two hours not much junk came out of mine.
There is nothing to prevent an actual block in the two and/or channel if it’s been soldered over. I think the only thing that you can do is just take a picture of it as best as you can with a flashlight there is nothing to prevent an actual block in the two and/or channel if it’s been soldered over. I think the only thing that you can do is just take a picture of it as best as you can with a flashlight to highlight the area that’s blocked if you can find it on the inside of the radiator port. I wish there was a way that I can upload some pictures to show you exactly what I’m talking about but there is no option on this website you’re going to have to email me directly and I will send you pictures. My email is:
punknugget@gmail.com
Sorry, in the beginning of the sentence I meant to say the word “tube” not the word “two.”
The best thing that I can tell you is if you see that kind of blockage inside the radiator port opening I would just take that radiator and show proof to the person who you purchased it from and asked for an exchange for one that does not have any blockage. As that is the process that I’m going through right now with this company.
You”re talking about one of the G1/4 openings is where you see the blockage? I just want to make sure I’m looking in the right place.
Yes that is correct. They are the quarter inch openings that you have to take the and open them up and look inside to see the tubes to make sure that all the tubes are open with no obstructions. Again please email me and I will send you the pictures see you can see exactly what I’m talking about. If it has any welding get obstructing the tube opening then that’s not good. And if I were you I would take that radiator and send it right back to that company and have them exchange it wherever you bought it from. Just to let you guys know Performance PC’s has he sent me to replacement radiators and they thoroughly checked everything! I’m very happy to hear that and I’m glad that they’re giving me stellar service and not trying to charge me extra money for something that they should be doing anyway. For that I’m very happy. We’ll see how they look when they come in and I inspect them.
I try and check mine when I get home today. I’ll get back to you. I got mine from PPC too.
Hey guys, sorry to hear you’ve had some problems with these rads. As you recently bought them from PPCs then they should be happy to work with you to RMA them 🙂 FWIW Coolgate also make a lot of the other radiators for other manufacturers so it can be quite hard to ‘escape’ them.
Well I have to be honest, I’m not vindictive, but at the same time I can’t stand injustice. Especially when you order something from a company and they are not up front with certain costs to things that really shouldn’t be a cost. I already know who that “supervisor” is at PPC. The great thing is I was dealing with Chris (of the employees at PPC) and he went through the trouble to help me and unfortunately had left early that day and said that he was going to personally handle my order the very next morning. Well that the person after him didn’t know that, nor did that other shipper (B.M. that person’s initials) read my notes to check the Rads before they shipped them and, well… you know the rest of the story.
I did speak to the manager though (Duke) and he too was very helpful. That “supervisor” could learn a thing or two from his own employees as only a few years ago that “supervisor” was very helpful. I guess over time you can lose your way in wanting to help people, but if that’s the case, then you should leave in charge others that will have yours’ and the customer’s back and THEM deal with those situations (like in my case) so things can get dealt with properly. I have a business too, so I understand the fine line of knowing when to help my customers and drawing that line.
In my case though, this was very simple. Coolgate (Yiming Huang) is coming out with (what seems to be), some great stuff, but he’s not quality controlling the inventory and that’s going to hurt him in the end as I’m going to NOW look into starting a post on my 10 PC forum sites that will shed more light into calling him to better quality control (as I don’t want this to happen to anyone else). Like with Drew Smith for example, maybe nothing is wrong with his rads, but now he’s got to take things apart to check.
To be quite honest, that’s not good, especially with something as simple as just checking the inside ports of your rads. That needs to happen at the company level and not from the reseller (like PPC). BUT – PPC should double check the work as well on every rad that is not taped-sealed. Like in the case of Coolgate. All they had to do was just unbox it, pull back the bubble wrap a bit and unscrew the caps and look inside quickly to see if every Tube is completely open and not blocked with solder.
Anyway I’m ranting and need to do other things, but I will revisit this topic with a more detailed review of my particular situation. But for now I’m STILL waiting (after 3 years) for Yiming to ship me my replacement 540x35mm Rad that I never received and lost time and money on. But that’s another story altogether that I’ll be putting together later on in my future post. Thanks for allowing us to contribute our thoughts here on this forum to protect others from making the possible same mistake. As I know a LOT of people check out this site (like I did), BEFORE they purchase these items. Again, thank you… 🙂
I’m having restriction problems with the loop I just did with the two Coolgate 480’s. I’m only getting about 0.5 GPM with them and one Heatkiller CPU block. I proceeded to hook up a DDC pump I have with an Aquacomputer Flow Meter to just one of the rads and max flow was only 350 L/H 1.5 GPM. Doesn’t that seem really low for just one rad?
Sorry I did not get a chance to see your post their Drew. Did you look inside your radiator to see tubes are blocked? Please let me know, thanks…
By the way what kind of fluid are you running through your radiators?
I’m running Mayhems X-1, and I checked my Heatkiller IV Pro CPU block as well, and that is only getting 240 L/H with just the CPU block in the loop. I think that the restriction is coming from the CPU block now that I researched it further. I don’t see any blockage in the rads. My alphacools UT 60 was only getting 400 L/H so the difference was not that much different than the G2’s. I think my rads are fine to be honest. My temps are really good too. My X99 5930 no overclock yet, but even with FPU test on Aida 64 temps don’t go over 52C, and idle I stay around 30C, with an ambient around 25C. Im going to dismantle the CPU block in next few weeks and check for a possible blockage, to see if I can get better than 130L/H on the whole loop.
Drew,
If you’re getting 150 – 180 GPH, that (to me) is awesome. I know that the amount of flow is not a factor; especially at that kind of flow rate. Just my thoughts on it and the reviews that I’ve read and watched over the years. This video is pretty interesting. It’s one mans’ opinion, but I think it’s helpful…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghk-kWqUrpE
Hope you find out what your issue is. Later…
Thanks for the link Punkbuster! I seem to of leveled out at 130 L/H and like I said temps are great so I have no complaints. The rads seem to be treating me very good!
PunkNugget I mean 🙂
Good for you, glad things are working out for you. Like I mentioned before I’m going to do a detailed post on how Tubes should look like inside the rad and what they shouldn’t look like and the two companies that have been notorious for that.
Ok sounds good make sure to let me know where to find the link. I’m on overclock.net as well. I’m NewtoCooling on that forum.
Comments are closed.